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This Week's Review of the Reviews

26/02/2007
The Scotsman’s David Lee has a soft spot for new upmarket bistro, The Glasshouse at Eskmills, in Musselburgh, housed inside the former head office of Esk Net Mills.
“Mr Adair has been true to his word of offering modern Scottish dishes using local suppliers,” writes Lee and he is “sorely tempted by three or four offerings”. A seared Stornoway black pudding with caramelised apple is “moist and delicious”, while a polenta stack with broad bean and radish salad is “a perfect starter…with a delicious dressing”. The “service is spot-on” and the main courses, venison and wild mushroom risotto, are “excellent” and “cooked to perfection”.

The Edinburgh Evening News included a review on what must be the most written-about restaurant in Edinburgh – the Plumed Horse, in Leith. However, the newspaper’s David Lamont has a more favourable opinion of the restaurant than other writers of late, and talks of the venue's “star quality”. “It is early days yet,” writes Lamont “but the signs are promising”, and though the “choice is narrow”, the menu offers “mouth-watering fare” and the “quality of ingredients and imagination coming from the kitchen is superb”. Lamont has “never had a better, more intense and delicately flavoured” borscht soup, and his foie gras sundae starter was “really refreshing”. A main of roast fillet of halibut was “meaty…moist and succulent” and he eulogies over his free-range guinea fowl, writing that the “infused flavours were a magnificent combination of subtle genius”. Prices are not cheap, says Lamont but “real foodies won't begrudge a penny”.

Joanna Blythman paid a visit to the Sorn Inn’s Chop House, in Ayrshire, and found it to be “luxuriously warm and much more comfortable and civilised than the typical post-smoking ban bar”. There is “much to commend the pork belly salad”, she writes in the Sunday Herald, and it is “expertly cooked”, as was a “beautifully tender” lamb curry, though the sauce “tasted more like something you might achieve using a jar of Uncle Ben's Cook-in sauce”.

Find the Sorn Inn in our Directory here
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Seen a review you think we should include? Email info@allfoodscotland.com
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