28/03/2007

This week, allfoodscotland's resident sommelier, Colin Bell, makes a departure from his musings about wine and turns his attention to bottled beers, demonstrating that curry is not the only option when matching beer with food.


We have such an eclectic range of ales and beers available here in Scotland – though still not given the recognition they deserve – and such a wealth of wonderful produce that it seems obvious to match the two.

With this in mind, one crisp sun-soaked spring morning I left the city and headed for Stockbridge and, in particular, to Peckhams. The deli is perhaps best know for its delightful range of wines and spirits, but it also has one of the best ranges of lagers and ales. Alongside the flavoured continental lagers and high-strength beers, is a well-chosen selection devoted to the beers of Scotland, with around 50 lagers and ales hailing from the borders right up to the very north and beyond into the Orkney Islands.

Here are a few of my selections that I tasted during (a very enjoyable) afternoon at my dining table:

Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer, 6.6%, £1.49
With its clear glass bottle, the colour of this ale – bright polished bronze with flashes of Aztec gold – make you want to get it out and into a glass immediately. The nose is warm and honeyed with an element of toasty citrus fruits dancing in the background. On the palate, this ale just sings of delicious fruit, red apple, pink grapefruit and a toffee’d zesty freshness. Try dousing lamb or pork in this beer and use the remainder as a gravy.

Angel, Organic Lager, Broughton Brewery 5.0%, £1.99
Pale and dusty golden in colour, the aromas of this beer are hoppy and yeasty. The fruit is fresh and forward with honeyed lemon, butter and traces of vanilla. The palate is an infusion of lightly bitter caramel with a defined malt and hazelnut edge. Try with simply roasted chicken or grilled salmon.

Scottish Oatmeal Stout, Broughton Brewery, 4.2%, £1.85
From the moment I poured this delicious stout into the glass I fell head over hops in love with it. As black as midnight and aromatic, this tastes of mocha, dark chocolate and vanilla infused damsons with a vein of treacle. This would be the ideal accompaniment to osso bucco, pheasant or even perhaps a haggis lasagne.

Williams Gold, Williams Brothers Brewery, 3.9%, £1.49
If you’re feeling jaded and tired then this ale is sure to refresh. Aromas of citrus and vanilla hurl themselves from the glass and it is positively packed with the vibrant flavours of grapefruit, orange zest, crisp apple and spring meadow herbs. This would be fantastic with either Dunsyre Blue cheese or herring rolled in oatmeal.

Williams Black, Williams Brothers Brewery, 4.2%, £1.49
I was fascinated by the dense, inky black colour of this ale. On tasting, I was reminded of my childhood, standing in the family kitchen surrounded by the aromas of breakfast – slightly singed toast, coffee and blackcurrant juice. The added chocolate, rum and raisin flavours would work well with hare, venison or smoked haddock with black pudding and smoked bacon.

Yellowhammer Organic IPA, Black Isle Brewery, 4.0%, £1.99
The nose of this medium weighted ale was one of the best I sampled. Very intense and rich, with more than a hint of banana and vanilla, with smokey grapefruit and red apple. On top of this it had complex biscuity flavours of toasted hazelnut, Horlicks and vivid spring floral textures. This would be a delight when paired with spiced mussels in a cream sauce, chicken or even haggis and clapshot.

Do you have a burning desire to know the perfect partner for Burgundy, Claret or Zinfandel? Or, the best beers to serve with food? Email your queries to Colin via drinks@allfoodscotland.com and we'll post his reply here.

Read Colin's advice on wines to serve with curry here, or wines to try this Spring here

Find a great selection of Scottish beers in the Scottish Real Ale shop, in the Directory here