07/05/2007

AllFoodScotland's resident sommelier, Colin Bell, is filled with the scents of summer this month as he recommends wines to match with summer foods such as leafy green salad...

With those lazy, hazy hot summer nights just around the corner our thoughts – and dinner plates – inevitably turn to fresh fruit and veg. But with the average summer salad containing a medley of acidic tomatoes, spicy leaves and vinegary dressings, it’s hard to know which wines can withstand this cacophony of flavours.

In the perfect pairing, neither the food nor the wine should dominate the food, and when the two are combined together they should be able to deliver a level of contrast and balance of flavour that neither could have achieved alone.

In fact, white wines – particularly crisp, light or medium bodied – readily complement raw vegetables in salads. And, reds can also be considered. Salads with 'meatier' ingredients such as mushrooms and cheese, pair exceptionally well with Pinot Noir, Grenache and Sangiovese. These reds like the whites, can handle the brighter flavours and higher acidity of raw foods.

When matching wine with salads, always look at the structural components and weight of the dish before concentrating on the flavours.

Choose wines that have seen little or no oak ageing so that the flavours do not clash in the mouth. Green vegetables, herbs and citrus vinaigrettes are just some of the ingredients that shine when teamed with such wines. Several grapes such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and Gruner Veltliner are natural companions to salads because they accentuate the bright, mineral flavours of the ingredients.

Select a wine that will balance and harmonise with the acidity, sweetness and body of the dish. This establishes a sound match without off tastes or other negative results. There are two distinct directions you can take when pairing flavours. You can either complement the dish with similar flavours or contrast it with opposite and different tastes.

However, when sharp vinegar comes into the equation it can make subtle well-balanced wines taste lifeless and sweet and alcoholic wines taste coarse and sharp. If you wish to use vinegar then I would suggest small amounts of mild vinegar like balsamic. Serve high-acid wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling or Pinot Grigio.

If there is something sweet in the salad – such as raisins or pears – find a wine that has these same aromas. Something with a little sweetness, such as a semi dry Riesling, is good but avoid complex reds with a lot of tannin, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, as these will destroy the taste of the food.

My top five for summer are:

Ktima Kosta Lazaridi Amethystos Rosé, Macedonia, Greece, 2005, £8.29, (Oddbins)
Absolutely bursting with concentrated cabernet sauvignon fruit flavour and great with bbq food. Bright, powerful, pungent flavours of ripe berry compote with perhaps a hint of violets and thyme. This would be a delightful paring with barbecued rabbit wrapped in pancetta or slow cooked pork belly with cinnamon, cloves and ginger.

Fiano di Avellino, Fuedi San Gregorio, Campania, Italy, 2005, £9.49, (Waitrose)
This is made from the fresh and exhilarating Fiano grape variety, indigenous to Italy. It has soft aromas, reminiscent of jasmine and honeysuckle, framed around delightful flavours of tropical lime, guava, peach and lemon grass. This would complement a dish such as sea bass stuffed with fennel and ginger or barbecued tuna with cracked black pepper.

Le Carredon, Grenache, Vin de Pays, France, 2006, £4.49, (Majestic)
A powerful wine with a palate that exudes aromas of redcurrants, green peppers and cassis. Try with roast pigeon or perhaps squid and chorizo with black olives.

Meerlust, Rubicon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2001, £20, (Harvey Nichols)
This wine has it all – cassis, cranberry and shades of vanilla extract with perhaps a touch of dill lurking in the background. Displaying ripe plum and bramble textures the wine is both full-bodied and rich. Try this with lamb marinated with fennel, cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon or South African boerwurst sausages.

Catena Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina, 2005, £11.99, (Peckhams)
Every now and then, along comes a wine that you wish that you could keep for yourself. This is one of those wines. From the ripe peach and apricot flavours to the delightful splash of coconut that hits you at the back of the palate this wine exudes style and grace. There is a surge of tropical fruit flavours to contend with here; pear, fig and toasted banana all rounded off beautifully with a dash of vanilla. Match this with barbecued guinea fowl, marinated veal escalopes or grilled crayfish.

To read Colin's advice on beer and food matching, click here

If you have a query on which drinks to pair with which foods, email us at info@allfoodscotland.com