11/05/2007

The fustier image of whisky is already being overturned by funky new companies and younger drinkers but now, F-words discovers, the industry is thirsting after a newer market – women.

It is the fortifying drink of the Iron Lady; was famously supped by Madonna on a film set, and, for an increasing number of women, a whisky tasting is the de rigueur way to spend an evening. It seems whisky and women are no longer chalk and cheese.

The cigar and slippers image of Scotch whisky has already been given a facelift over the last few years, with the industry spending considerable sums attracting young, 25-35 year old drinkers. And, with good reason. Although Scotch whisky retains one of the biggest chunks of the UK spirits market, accounting for some 35 per cent of total sales (valued at around £2.5 billion) it is in overall decline. According to the latest AC Neilsen figures, blended whisky consumption has fallen by some 2.1 per cent and, despite a buoyant Christmas, malt whisky sales have stayed static. Worse still, for the UK trade, sales of imported whisky have leapt by 4 per cent since last year.

But the AC Neilsen figures also indicate that the number of women drinking malts is growing – with almost a quarter of Scotch drinkers in the UK being female – and the industry is beginning to switch on to female interest in Scotland’s national drink.

Cocktails and Dreams

Much of the initial promotion to women, at least by the more traditional brands, has been through pretty packaging and cocktails.

Ian Macleod Distillers has made no bones about wanting to “shake off the old fashioned image of Scotch whisky” and its brashest brand, Smokehead, has been heavily targeted at younger drinkers. But, although the company stresses it doesn’t specifically target women, it clearly has the female market in its sights too.

The distillery recently teamed up with mixologists at Cargo Bar in Edinburgh to develop a range of Smokehead cocktails aimed at women, and the bar’s mixologist James Sutherland believes customers are moving further away from just drinking white spirits. “This new drive has included a large number of women drinkers who appreciate the delicate and varied flavours of whisky,” he says.

The Famous Grouse has also heavily promoted its use in cocktails. “The single biggest challenge facing the whisky industry right now is long-term new user recruitment,” says Emma Heath, marketing manager for whiskies at Maxxium UK, the distributors of The Famous Grouse. “The opportunity to broaden appeal to women is something we are very interested in.”

In the Pink

Liqueurs have also been big news. Recently, the Scottish Liqueur Company relaunched its Columba Cream, in an effort to become Scotland’s answer to Baileys – that most girly of drinks, but the most recent, and perhaps most controversial attempt to woo female drinkers has been made by the Edrington Group – which produces Famous Grouse, Highland Park and Macallan.

Four months ago, it rippled the water in whisky purists’ glasses by announcing it was trailing a new liqueur – called Amber – in the US. Specifically targeted at upmarket female drinkers, the liqueur is a mix of Edrington’s über traditional single malt whisky, Macallan, and flavours of maple and pecan. Becky Brock, global innovations manager at Macallan, says they simply saw a good opportunity. “Just because you have heritage and history doesn’t mean you have to stop trying out new things,” she says. “We wanted to broaden our footprint and bring all the quality, heritage and credibility of the Macallan brand to customers who wouldn’t normally drink whisky.”

Though it’s too early to say how Amber will be received, or when it might be available in the UK, one Scottish company has already released a product aimed squarely at the female market. Strawberry Kiss, the flagship product of the Edinburgh-based Leith Liqueur Company, has caused something of a stir since its official launch in 2006, not least because of its sickly pink colour.

The liqueur, created by Norman Brown, who has some 25 years in the drinks trade including a stint at Threshers, and John Smith, a former master blender at Glenmorangie, mingles fresh strawberries with single malt whisky.

“It seemed natural, given the colour, that we aimed it towards women and we saw a gap in the market,” says Brown. “The industry is stuck in its ways and slow to develop and it needs young companies like ours to come along and shake it up a bit. Women increasingly have the spending power, so it’s important the industry doesn’t ignore them.”

That said, Brown has been keen not to distance himself too far from the Scotch whisky cradle and sought the opinion of some 40 whisky experts, including Glenmorangie’s master distiller Dr Bill Lumsden. According to Brown, of those that tried Strawberry Kiss, all of them liked it. “We certainly didn’t set out to upset the industry and our experience meant they took us more seriously,” says Brown.

The smokey, peaty ones

And it seems you don’t have to sell a shocking pink whisky or creamy liqueur to appeal to women either. Sarah Bottomely, who handles the marketing for Glengoyne Distillery and, incidentally, is one of a growing band of women working at high levels within the Scotch whisky industry, says it’s naïve to assume women will always go for lighter whiskies. “Glengoyne whiskies lend themselves to women because they are light and aromatic but in my experience women enjoy a range of whiskies just like men,” she says.

Annabel Meikle, whisky taster at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, agrees. “You don’t need maple syrup and ribbons to attract women to whisky and as with newcomers to any drink it just needs the fear factor taken out of it,” says Meikle. “In my experience women have a more discerning pallet than most men and will go for a Laphroaig over a light, young whisky.

“The key is not to alienate but also not to actively pander to women. Retailers need to make female customers feel comfortable about asking for whisky, and show them that there is no right or wrong way to drink it. Above all, you can no longer assume that a woman who enters your shop is buying whisky for her grandfather, father or husband.”


Whiskies for women: what to stock

Glengoyne 10 Year Old Single Highland Malt, Glengoyne/Ian Macleod Distillers
£23.99 for 70cl bottle
Tasting Note: This golden yellow whisky is remarkably smooth and fiendishly approachable. It has a sweet nose, with toffee and popcorn aromas. Slightly nutty, with fresh green apples coming through and a sweet and malty finish.

Strawberry Kiss, Leith Liqueur Company
£15.99 for a 50cl bottle
Tasting Note: Strawberry Kiss has the taste of succulent summer strawberries with a background of subtle spices, rounded of with a delightful hint of 14-year-old Speyside single malt whisky.

The Famous Grouse Malt Whisky Aged 10 Years, Edrington Group
£19.99 for 70cl bottle
Tasting Note: The Famous Grouse Malt Whisky is created from the finest single malt scotch whiskies, including the Macallan and Highland Park. This golden, clear and bright whisky has a well-balanced aroma with a citrus hint, a full, mature flavour with hints of fruitcake and chocolate orange and clean medium dry finish.

Smokehead, Ian Macleod Distillers
£19.99 for a 70cl bottle
Tasting Note: A rich seaweedy and intensely peaty whisky. The flavour is fresh, fruity and immense, with notes of sherry; iodine, toffee, smoke and sea salt all fighting for recognition. The nose is of heavy smoke and peat with lemon, fresh ginger and plum jam with a peat, spice and mandarin finish.