01/12/2006

When the snow lies 'crisp and even', the sweet fruits of summer can seem a long way off but, in fact, December can be one of the most colourful times of the year at farmers' markets and grocers - with an abundance of delicious fruit and vegetables, game meat and seafood available. As the perceptible chill of December is gripped by the icy fingers of the New Year, we can console ourselves with antioxidant-boosting beetroot and red cabbage, creamy celeriac and crisp celery. With 2007 on the horizon, there’s plenty of wild game, turkey, fat geese and perhaps the odd partridge in a pear tree too.

Fruit and vegetables to eat now
Celery, red cabbage, cauliflower, celeriac, pumpkin/squash, beetroot, turnip/swede, parsnips, pears, Brussels sprouts, Jerusalem artichoke, kale, leek, maincrop potato, apple, citrus fruit,

Meat and poultry to eat now
Wild duck, turkey, grouse, Guinea fowl, hare, partridge, pheasant, rabbit, venison, wood pigeon

Fish and seafood to eat now
Brill, haddock, John dory, monkfish, mussels, oysters, sea bass, scallops

DECEMBER'S RECIPES

Jacqueline’s hand-dived Achiltibuie King Scallop on Wild Arran Beetroot Salsa

Jacqueline and Pauline O’Donnell run The Sisters Restaurants in Glasgow's Jordanhill and Kelvingrove and they take great pride in sourcing the best suppliers. Their scallops and langoustines are landed on Thursday at the pier in Ullapool and Mark (also know as ‘the fish man’) delivers them to the restaurant half-way through service. Robin, of Arran Organics, supplies them with “the best tasting beetroot ever”.

Ingredients

Shelled king scallops rinsed under cold water (roughly 3-5 per person and purchased from a reputable fishmonger if you don’t know a diver!)
1tbsp olive oil

For the salsa
1/2 dozen cooked beetroots, finely diced
1tbsp olive oil
1tsp each chopped coriander, chervil and chives    
1tbsp finely chopped shallot or red onion
Salt and pepper to taste

Take the scallops out of the fridge about 10 minutes before cooking (as you only lightly sear them it’s best they are not too cold). Mix the beetroot, olive oil, herbs, onion and salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside. Heat either a non-stick pan or a cast iron griddle pan until very hot. Lightly rub each scallop with olive oil and place in pan. Do a quarter turn after 40 seconds then turn them over after a further 30 seconds. Leave for 30 seconds, then take off the heat and leave in the pan for a minute while you arrange your plates with the salsa. Serve with salad leaves and most of all a knife and fork…ENJOY!

Tobermory Cranberry Risotto

Colin MacIntyre hails from Tobermory on the Island of Mull and is the gifted songwriter, musician and producer behind the Mull Historical Society. His risotto recipe is taken from ‘Cookin’, a cookbook put together by friend and drummer Stuart McLean and double bass player Kevin McGuire to raise money for Edinburgh’s Royal Hospital for Sick Children (see the Books section in the Digest). Colin says: “I used to always cook my staple dish of spaghetti carbonara whenever I cooked for friends. It was pretty fattening and loaded with cheese: a Scotsman’s carbonara. But when I got married a few years ago it became evident that I had to widen my repertoire. I discovered this dish in a book somewhere and it has been a success. Three years on I’m still making it and still married.”

Ingredients

Bag of dried cranberries
1 onion
Bundle of courgettes 
Bundle of mushrooms
Fresh basil 
Parmesan cheese
Isle of Mull cheddar
Lump of butter 
Bag of Arborio rice (1 mug per 2 servings)
Vegetable stock
Pepper
1 bottle of red wine (to drink)
1 Neil Young cd (secret ingredient if accessible)

Get on the blower to your Mull cranberry dealer early in the morning. Lets hope he’s in. Place your order and with any luck he’ll do you a bulk deal. If not, get down the local deli.

Chop the veg, basil and the onion. Grate some cheese – more Parmesan than Mull. Boil your kettle. Put on the cd (I’d go for ‘After The Goldrush’) and open the bottle of wine and pour yourself a glass. I just use one big, tall pot; it saves on the washing up, looks more Italian, is less complicated, and allows you to keep a closer eye on the wine. ‘Tell Me Why’ should be well on its way by the time you set your oven to 220C/400F/Gas mark 6. Again, it’s all in the detail.

Your Mull cranberry dealer has called. The produce is on its way courtesy of Cal Mac ferries (only applicable if making the dish off the island). ‘Only Love Can Break Your Heart’. Sit the pot on a medium flame. Melt the lump of butter in it. Toss in the finely chopped onion. When they are soft, throw in the rice. Pour in the vegetable stock. I like quite a lot. Bring to boil for 2 minutes. Add pepper. Bring up to the boil. Throw in the all the veg and the chopped fresh basil. Get oven gloves. Place the pot in the oven for 25 minutes.  ‘Don’t Let It Bring You Down’. Have another glass of red wine, go on.

Set the table. The cranberries have arrived. Remove the pot from oven. Stir in loads of Parmesan cheese and a little Mull cheddar. Re-fill the glasses. Serve on hot plates with a bit of rocket salad and a sprinkling of the Parmesan. Enjoy.

N.B If making this dish on the island itself: then drive to Croig, turn right at the red phone box, go to the end of the road, there you will find a hole in the brick wall, hopefully with a supply of fresh cranberry sauce, and an honesty box.